Italy 2023

#3, Venerable Venice

We would spend 6 nights in Venice (Venezia) most days filled with discoveries, tours, exploring back alleyways, bridges, other areas of Venice, St. Mark’s Square, St. Mark’s Basilica, The Doge’s Palace, riding the vaporetto, street side cafes, good food, two outer islands – Murano and Burano, churches – lots of them, and of course gondolas and gondoliers. 

Reportedly there are 141 churches in Venice. It seemed like they were around nearly every corner. Many were elaborately decorated with statuary and beautiful interiors. Bells were often heard ringing and near our hotel, early morning peals were pleasing to hear. 

Another aspect of exploring around Venice were the number of piazzas (public squares or plazas) tucked away or just opening up from narrow alleyways. Often with restaurants and outdoor cafes, shops and vendors plying their wares, others, quiet little places where children may be playing or people strolling about or relaxing in the sunshine; those plazas were picturesque, romantic and idilic. A person could fall in love here.

Our first full day was sunny and pleasantly cool, perfect for being outdoors exploring the city. Having slept in, trying to adjust to the time changes, we finally emerged into the sunlight and were amazed at how many tourists were there. March/April is the shoulder season when, traditionally, the full tourist season hasn’t yet kicked in. Possibly due to the long hiatus prolonged by Covid, people were feeling more confident and ready to travel once again. I would say that is true for myself. 

Being not far from Saint Mark’s Square and Basilica, we ventured there, crossing over canals as gondolas smoothly and gracefully floated by. Approaching, and at first site of St. Mark’s Square, I was amazed at how huge it was. The magnificent St. Mark’s Basilica, amazing and breathtaking, is extraordinarily and intricately designed, with several domes, many spires and statuary adorning the outside. The cathedral is anchored at the far end of the plaza while long columned porticos bordered the remaining three sides. 

This plaza and the cathedral are likely one of the most recognized and iconic images from Venice. Having endured for nearly 15 centuries this perfect sunny day allowed the square and church to stand out in all its glory.

All about were throngs of people in the square where restaurant tables awaited guests to sit and enjoy the ambiance of the surroundings. Some construction was also underway, but really did not deter from the scenic beauty.

To the right of St. Mark’s is the Doge’s Palace. The Doge of Venice were the chief magistrates and leaders of the Republic of Venice, elected for life by the Venetian nobility. The Doge Palace faces the Grand Canal.

All of this stimuli were nearly overwhelming, but my need to eat was even greater. Maneuvering about through the crowds, we chose an outdoor seating at Rossopomodoro restaurant where I enjoyed a plate of gnocchi.

As we sat, ate and relaxed the swarms of people continually flowed about and around us, some were school groups, guide led tourist groups and others from near and far. It was fun to sit and people watch.

One of the other (maybe the most) iconic images of Venice are the gondolas and the gondoliers. How could I go to Venice and NOT ride in a gondola? No question about it, this was a must do experience! Mark and I arranged with one of the many gondoliers to take a float upon his craft telling us this was the absolute best day for the experience. And he was correct as he pointed out historic buildings along the way, floating down narrow canals, under bridges where passersby waved at us from above, other gondoliers greeting each other, motor boats slowly passing by in the narrow channels, colorful buildings, domed churches and the clear blue sky made it an absolutely enjoyable experience.

Rounding out the day we explored more little shops along the many narrow alleyways stopping in one where I bought a Venice Christmas ornament. We also arranged tours for the next day of St. Mark’s Cathedral and the Doge’s Palace.

Before sleep that night I learned that Jim K. a friend & classmate from high school had unexpectedly died. Feeling sad, wishing that I could be there, but obviously not under the circumstances.

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