Italy 2023

#8, Florence (Firenze)

You may have heard of high speed train travel in Europe. This was (my first) our main mode of transportation between several cities within Italy and I will say, it was a delight! Although the station in Venice was crowded early on the morning we departed for Florence, we had familiarized ourselves with the station beforehand which made our experience there quite effortless. It was not difficult to understand the time schedules which were scrolling on overhead screens. Locating our track was simple enough as all the trains were lined up on the multiple tracks. Our tickets indicated in which car we would be seated, also easy as each car was numbered. 

Overhead racks held our luggage and the seats were very comfortable with a fold out table between. At 9:26 a.m., right on the dot, the train pulled out of the station at the posted departure time. Slowly at first through the city environs, as we passed further away from the city, the speed increased. Out in the countryside, Springtime was in bloom with green fields and hillsides, flowering trees, grape vineyards starting to bud, animals grazing, old homes with smoke curling from chimneys; a very pretty scenic view from our window. The trip was about 2 hours during which time we were served snacks and choice of drinks. Nothing to do but sit back, relax, take in the passing scenery. 

Considered by many to be the birthplace of the Renaissance, Florence is noted for its culture, Renaissance art, architecture and monuments. I can attest to seeing, first hand, magnificent architecture and renowned works of art, notably and perhaps one most recognized, Michelangelo’s statue “DAVID”. We would see that and much more while in this city.

Arriving in Florence was in stark contrast to Venice. Here there was vehicular traffic, busses, cars, motorbikes and scooters, all actively using the roads. It had been pleasant in Venice without the traffic and the noise, but Florence was alive and bustling, more like what we have come to expect of big cities. 

We had an Airbnb reserved which supposedly was not far from the train station, but it was confusing trying to find it. We walked there lugging our bags behind us, found the door and followed the directions to enter. Inside an elevator awaited to take us up one floor to the apartment. The apartment owner, Bianca, came by to photograph our passports (required for room rentals) and gave us instructions on the apartment. It was a sizable place, with two bedrooms, a living room area, dining room area, small kitchen, a washing machine (no dryer). 

Mark and I shared a large twin bed room with frescoed ceiling. Our toilet area was unique (odd) with a doorway off of the bedroom, two steps up and directly to the right of the doorway, a step down into the sink area. But straight ahead from the doorway about 8 steps led further up to the commode at the top of that narrow stairway. Nothing else, just the toilet up at the top. This required one to be alert, especially if nature called during the night. A shower was in another area off of the kitchen. Somehow, the building was adapted over time to include this rendition of indoor plumbing. 

Large double casement windows had solid inside shutters which could be closed or opened to control the light. Outside, louvered shutters had been so heavily overpainted as to make the louvers inoperable. But it all added to the ambiance of our apartment.

The location was ideal, being in the most prominent area for easy access to the museums, art and buildings we wanted to see. As it was late afternoon, we walked the shot distance to two of Florence’s iconic buildings, the Duomo and The Baptistry. The setting sun cast a warm golden glow upon both the Duomo and Baptistry. The area was overflowing with people and activity. Shops and restaurants were busy, a street performer entertained a crowd and a horse with carriage slowly plodded through the crowd.

A brief history of the Duomo: It is a Roman Catholic Church in Florence begun in 1296 and consecrated in 1436 and, at that time, was the world’s largest church able to accommodate 30,000 worshippers. It stands, with The Baptistry, in the Piazza del Duomo. The most significant feature is its dome which was an engineering feat at the time and continues to dominate both the church and city. It remains the largest brick dome ever constructed. Its exterior also is striking with polychrome marble panels in various shades of green, pink and white.

A brief history of The Baptistry: One of the oldest buildings in Florence, Italy, it was constructed between 1059 and 1128. Besides its octagonal shape, the exterior design is quite striking with white Carrara marble and green marble inlay, It is renowned for its three sets of doors with bronze relief sculptures depicting biblical scenes. Michelangelo dubbed the east doors The Gates of Paradise. Until 1935 all Florentines were baptized there.

Regrettably, time ran out with other planned tours and we did not get to enter either building. 

Pat and John’s plans changed with a decision to stay on in Florence but that necessitated finding another B&B, which they were able to accomplish via cell phone and the internet. Thank goodness for modern technology.

That evening the activity on the street below our apartment continued into the wee hours, keeping me awake for some time. But I would have time to rest the next day as we would take a day trip to Assisi, about 2 ½ – 3 hours by train.

Enjoying the late afternoon sunlight and atmosphere, approaching sensory overload, I gradually began acclimating myself to the change of pace from Venice.