My Summer of 2023

Chapter 6, Oban and Tobermory

It was a short sail next morning into the Oban harbor where we tied up at one of the many berths available for boats. Oban has a reputation for its whiskey although we did not do any tastings while there. It was a very busy port, and the town was full of people. Above the town is a large circular structure that dominates the scene. It resembles a coliseum but is not. Known as McCaig’s Tower, we trekked up for a closer look. Despite rain, the views down to the harbor and out toward the Isle of Mull were spectacular.

Spending the night at the dock in Oban, the McCaig Tower was well lit in dark blue. It certainly is a standout both in daylight and at night.

By the evening, the rain had passed and reflections upon the harbor waters were deep and colorful.

The following morning, on shore came the sound of a bagpiper playing. I walked the piers up to the dock where a young girl was playing the instrument.

There is something a bit eerie, the sound piercing and beautiful when I hear a bagpipe. A crowd had gathered listening to the music and occasionally tossing money into an open case by the girl. It was apropos to hear and feel the bagpipe’s music as we left Oban on the beginning of our sail around the Isle of Mull.

Click on any photo below (maybe double click) to open full size and then scroll through the pic gallery:

Passing through Oban’s harbor we headed northwesterly toward Mull Island passing by Loch Don (I was proclaimed King of Scotland as you recall, so a lake named for me seems appropriate). Shortly after, up on the high shore was Duart Castle, ancient home of the Clan McClean. Nowadays, the castle can be toured and where special occasions are held.

With both sails up we continued sailing westward toward Tobermory on the Isle of Mull.

Sitting on deck enjoying the sea air, the wind filling the sails, the sound of the sails flapping in the breeze, the motion of the ocean with its gently rolling swells, the boat was softly undulating over the sea. The feel of the boat as it glided along, bobbing so to speak, softly up and down with slight swaying to and fro felt like a child being cradled and rocked to sleep. Not even a hint of sea sickness, but quite the opposite, it felt good and natural to be floating on the ocean.

Tobermory, our destination this day is a colorful seaport. Along the pier facing the harbor is the main street with multi-colored buildings that offer a cheerful greeting to visitors. How could anyone not smile coming into port with such a sight.

As in Oban, the harbor has many berths for arriving boats. After securing our boat we headed to shore, checking in with the port authority and paying the necessary docking fees. On shore we checked out several shops, visited a museum/coffee shop/artist collective housed in an old stone church. Its stained-glass rosette window, still intact, was brilliant as the light shown through.

After a morning at sea and exploring around Tobermory, it was time to take a break, at the Mishnish pub of course, where we enjoyed a pint of beer.

The long-established pub exuded a sense of its age, the friendships established within and over the years, a congenial gathering place and surely many tales from sailors and townspeople alike. Before returning to the boat, it seemed fitting to try out another pub. Here we tasted more whiskey, a great way to get that warm fuzzy feeling on what was a bit of a rainy day.

Overnighting at Tobermory, I was on a mission the next morning to find a souvenir reminding me of this town. It was a curved multi-colored glass piece that was sold out in the shops we entered.

But one shop owner told us that a back street shop is where the glass pieces were made. I had to wait until that shop opened but was soon inside and was able to observe the couple making their glass pieces before making my purchase. Satisfied and happy I re-boarded the boat and we were soon underway on the next leg of our sailing.

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Thank you, Don Kline