My Summer of 2023

Chapter 8, Giants, Breathing with the Ocean and Surprise visitors

August 15

Setting the jib sail we headed for the Isle of Staffa and Fingal’s Cave. This is a small island with prominent basalt rock columns and caves. Approaching it seemed rather ordinary until coming around it, the distinctive rock formations seem to uphold a massive rock top that then has a grassy cover overall.

Edging closer for a better view, a tour boat arrived, its guide telling his passengers about this small island and its basaltic rock columns over his loudspeaker – a kind of bonus to get more information. According to Irish and Scottish legend these columns were part of a “Giant’s Causeway” that was built by a giant Scotsman (Benandonner) to bridge over to Ireland in preparation for a fight between he and the Irish giant (Fingal). And so, here is the story of Fingal’s Cave, with the realization that mythical tales are a wee bit exaggerated where sizes of beings and distances – between Ireland and Scotland- can be a mere stone’s throw apart in that world.

Strangely enough, Fingal’s Cave wasn’t actually home to Fingal, this was where his nemesis, the Scottish giant Benandonner lived. Fingal was a big lad, but he wasn’t a true giant, not like enormous Benandonner. But separated by the Irish Sea, he felt safe enough to fling insults back and forward.

Then one day, things came to a head. The Scottish giant threw down a challenge to the Irish hero. A fight to the death to see who could live up to their threats. A bridge was built all the way from Staffa to what’s known as the Giants causeway in Northern Ireland, using huge stone columns still found at both ends.

Neither of these two competitors had ever actually seen the other one, only heard the vicious insults, so they weren’t sure what they were going to come up against. Fingal’s many adventures had given him a legendary reputation, but Benandonner didn’t think anybody could truly be bigger or stronger than he was. Striding out above the waves on his new bridge, the Scottish giant could be seen against the horizon from miles away!

Over in Ireland, Fingal finally caught a glimpse of Benandonner and his stomach twisted in a knot. He had slain some impressive warriors in his time, but even he would struggle with this monster! Fingal’s wife was a cunning lady though and she had an idea. This wouldn’t be a battle of strength; they were going to beat him with their wits.

Trusting his wife, Fingal let her wrap him up in a huge sheet, just like a newborn baby and lay him down in a makeshift crib. Benandonner finally arrived and demanded to battle his opponent there and then, but he was told it would need to wait. Fingal was out hunting, could he not see it was only his wife and baby at home just now? Benandonner looked down into the crib and his jaw dropped at the size of what he saw. If that was how big Fingal’s newborn child was, then the father must be enormous!

He wasn’t going to hang around there and find out, so the giant raced back to Staffa, destroying the bridge as he went. He reached the safety of his cave and thanked his lucky stars that Fingal hadn’t been at home when he arrived.

Over the years, legends of Benandonner have faded away and many people who tell this story have forgotten his name! It seems that as well as winning their feud, Fingal’s prize included the title of this incredible cave on Staffa.

I hope you enjoyed that little bit of “history”.

Continuing a southerly course, we would soon approach the island of Iona and be passing by its famous Iona Abbey. This is one of the oldest Christian religious centers in Western Europe and a focal point for the spread of Christianity throughout Scotland. Sailing beyond Iona Island we would be rounding the southwestern corner of Mull Island. Along the way, in a secluded bay, we approached Desert Island Beach a white sand beach reminiscent of a tropical island where huge granite blocks of stones framed the island shore. Further on, we also diverged to see another white sand beach before heading on around Mull Island.

It would be a long stretch this afternoon. I sat on deck absorbing the moments of peace, smooth sailing, the changing lighting upon the hillsides as clouds and sunlight competed for dominance. The clouds cast broad shadows sweeping over the hills even as sunlight filtered through competing with the shadows creating a perfect vision of light and shadow mixing together.

In my quiet reverie, I felt the ocean around and below me. There was the movement of the swell’s gentle ebb and flow. It felt like a breathing organism just as I connected the motion to my own breath. Imagine, lying calmly, how one’s breath gently, smoothly rises and falls. So, it was as though I was in sync with the breath of Mother Earth and feeling that motion as I focused on admiring the scenery, the movement upon the sea, the waves, clouds, blue sky peeking through and the sound of the wind singing through the ship’s rigging.

Lost in thought, I gazed off into the horizon.

Suddenly there was something…

Movement, unusual. What was I seeing?

OH!

Dolphins!!

Both Graham and Maralyn were taking care of the sailing and not yet aware that we had visitors. And me, I was speechless, or rather so shocked to suddenly be seeing dolphins jumping up through the waves, that I lost my voice. My brain was yelling at me “dolphins” and yet my mouth could not utter the word. It was like a moment of stuttering when I finally burst out “DOLPHINS”!!

Or go tto his You Tube link and download the short video: https://youtu.be/OX-CAOYIOPc

My shout caught Maralyn and Graham’s attention and we soon realized that a pod of these splendid creatures was all around the boat. They were playful, racing alongside, bumping into the boat and each other, jumping in and out of the water. I do believe they were enjoying themselves as much as we were enjoying all their antics. We then were all on high alert knowing we were experiencing a very special moment. Of the many experiences sailing, this experience tops the list. It was thrilling. In a short period of time, the dolphins, having had their fun with us, swam off, not to be seen again. Oh, but what an experience!

Our longest day of sailing would bring us within sight of the mainland. Before ending our day, we sailed through the Gavellachs – Islands of the Sea – a chain of small islands off the southern coast of Mull Island. One of those small islands holds the ruins of a 9^th century monastery with several bee-hive shaped stone structures that served as monk’s cells. It is fascinating to learn about and see these historic places, which have all contributed to the culture of Scotland.

Ahead of us lay the Gulf of Corryvreckan better known as “Witch’s Whirlpool”. This area is comprised of fast-moving tidal flows passing through a constriction, forming waves, eddies and strong currents, with Corryvreckan known for its strong whirlpool that can be dangerous to navigate.

We tackled it and sailed through without incident.

Although within sight of our destination, and starting point, Crinan, we anchored for the night offshore in Yellow Island Bay. Only one other boat occupied that bay overnight.

Ending the night and 4 days at sea, we enjoyed a bit more whiskey tasting before our return to land the next morning.

The following morning was calm, the water as smooth as glass. Civilization was alive around us, with people, houses, cows, sheep and cars on the nearby land. We had always been within sight of land, but now the mainland and end of sailing was at hand.

Passing through the locks that brought us back up to the canal and marina water level, we soon returned to Bellanoch Marina and docked “Lady Linzy” in her berth. After lunch a nice hike above Crinan Locks offered us nice views out across the land and sea. From this vantage point there were vestiges of Fall visible in the yellowing leaves of some trees.

A pint at the Crinan Hotel wrapped up the day.

Now the 17^th of August, my trip would soon wrap up this portion. Arriving back in Torrance, I was able to do my laundry and spent the late afternoon on a final, long hike with Graham and Maralyn. Walking along canals, through wildflower lined paths, farm fields, golf course, an old stone church with ancient graveyard, through woods and a portion of Antonine’s Wall, (a Scottish wall built to deter the Romans when they occupied parts of the British Isles), we covered nearly 6 miles. Having never really lost them, I would say I got my land legs back that afternoon.

The long hike may have been a good preparation for the next day’s continuation of my Scottish adventure.

Edinburgh.