My Summer of 2023

Chapter 11, Into The Scottish Highlands

August 19

Finally, after all my rushing and then the delay in leaving on the 5-day tour of the Scottish Highlands, we were off on the latest of my adventures in Scotland.

It did not take long and we were headed North out of Edinburgh. Gazing out the window of the Rabbie’s Tour van I was mesmerized by the views out onto the beautiful countryside abounding with green hills and mountains all around. It was a rather dreary day which did improve as the hours swept by.

In about an hour we arrived at the small town of Dunkeld nestled on the banks of the river Tay where we had the opportunity to stretch our legs and walk about. The main attraction here is the old stone church surrounded by massive old trees. All of our group made our way out to and around this 500-year-old church. As we explored around the church, a large inset clock high up on its bell tower rang out the hour, the loud peal of its bells spreading out over the land. Apparently the building was under restoration as it was fenced off, its interior vacant and without a roof.

All around the old cathedral, sitting majestically adjacent to the River Tay, we were dwarfed in size by towering old conifer trees (Giant Sequoias, if memory serves me) creating a very serene scenic setting.

Dunkeld lies close to the geological Highlands Boundary Fault and is frequently described as the “Gateway to the Highlands”.

And so, as we left Dunkeld, we were soon officially entering the Highlands.

Dark skies dominated but occasionally beams of sunlight did break through casting down patches of light, brightening fields and hillsides, even as, in the background, blue-grey colored mountains skimmed the bottoms of the clouds.

Our driver, Des (Desmond) narrated about Scotland along our journey further into the Highlands. As we traveled along, Des told us of history, clans, wars and folklore.

You all have heard about the legend of Loch Ness and its famous sea creature, Nessie. That was our next stop. It was what I can describe as dreary bright as we arrived. A misty rain awaited us, but did not deter us from walking about, exploring along the shore at this location on Loch Ness. Striding along the rocky beach, a brisk breeze forcing waves to lap against the shore, I peered out into the distance, but nary a glimpse of old Nessie.

Onward we went into the afternoon toward Rogie Falls a multi-tiered waterfall accessible along a pleasant wooded path. I’d already seen many waterfalls while in Michigan and Ohio and I can say it was impressive, but not all that notable in comparison to others I’ve seen. Mostly, I enjoyed the walk to and from the falls.

As we neared our first night’s stay in Ullapool, a break in the clouds, even as light rain fell, allowed the breaking sunshine to force through, creating a brilliant rainbow. Des pulled aside the road as we all piled out of the van in hopes of capturing a photo of that shining arc in the sky as it floated over another loch. We all were successful in that effort, as you can see in the included photo here.

Reaching Ullapool, Des dropped each of us off at various B&B’s around the town. Not everyone would be staying at one location on this trip, but at mine named “Foinaven”, one of the couples Walen and May, also had a room. The owner was cheerful as she greeted us upon our arrival, explained her house rules and that in the morning she would deliver breakfast to our doors. The room was very nice with its own bathroom ensuite.

Des had pointed out restaurants where we could go for dinners, to which we would need to walk. May, Walen and I got directions from our host, that proved to be incomplete as we roamed around the B&B neighborhood in search for a supposed walkway leading up into town. After much wandering about and searching, a very nice lady heard our discussion outside her home and came out to clarify the directions. Apparently, many tenants at the B&B have had the same difficulty with the directions and this lady had steered others to the correct path to town as well as us.

Once there, our first choice required reservations, which we of course did not have. But we made them for the next night’s dinner. Around the corner, we chose a carry-out place and ordered fish and chips, a pretty good size serving at that. Nearby park tables next to the harbor allowed us a place to sit, eat and get to know each other. Surprisingly, I found that they had both graduated from The University of Michigan in Ann Arbor, MI where I had lived and worked for 25 years. Small world as they say.

Returning to Foinaven B&B, I was able to catch up on some reading before slipping under the covers for the night.

The next day would be packed as the adventure delved further into the Highlands.