Legends and Libations

Chapter 6

Rollin’ On The River

Mississippi River Cruise 2025

Saturday, July 19

By the next morning, we had arrived in Natchez, Mississippi where more interesting tours awaited us.

 I chose to join the group visiting a working cotton farm, Frogmore Plantation and Gin  where our tour began in an aged log cabin that had been a school and church. There, a descendant of slaves spoke to us and played videos depicting the hardships faced by slaves and how music helped them overcome their suffering with Gospel and spiritual songs. Slaves longed to go “home” and songs helped them, such as “Swing low, sweet chariot, coming for to carry me home…”.  This educational and entertaining presentation ended with an old spiritual that included audience participation playing tambourines.

Continuing our tour of Frogmore Plantation, we were shown how cotton seeds were separated from the cotton bolls. Each person was given a cotton boll (the pod that holds the cotton fiber). As we all discovered separating the seeds by hand was a tedious chore but made easier by pulling and stretching the cotton fibers and then picking out the seeds.

This would have been a labor-intensive chore, but in 1793, that changed when American inventor, Eli Whitney invented the cotton gin which quickly separated the seeds from the fibers. This earliest version of the gin (engine) was hand cranked.  With this invention, cotton thus became a profitable crop and helped shape the economy of the Antebellum South. King Cotton, as it became known, developed into a dominant economic force from Georgia to Texas both as European exports and to the textile mills in the New England states. Further, because cotton was then a profitable crop, the Cotton Gin helped prolong the institution of slavery.

In time cotton gins became mechanized and were operated by steam engines, thus even more profoundly affecting the profitability of growing cotton. On display was a cotton gin relic of the steam era, its mechanics explained as we walked from the start of the process to the ending where cotton bales would have been bundled for export.

To further expand our knowledge of cotton growing and processing, our buses drove through a modern computerized cotton gin operation, which can now accomplish the job in minutes – nearly hands free.

Over the years Frogmore Plantation has acquired ancient antebellum buildings from other farms including slave quarters which they have restored and are also on display for all guests to visit.

My understanding was that, after slavery was abolished, the Frogmore Plantation owner offered his slaves a portion of his land for them to start their own farms which may be where the expression, 40 acres and a mule originated.

In the afternoon Mark, Penny, Stu and I continued our Natchez tours which included two fine old  Natchez, Mississippi homes.

Linden House, our first house has a long history starting in the late 1700’s after the American Revolutionary War. It was modified, renovated, modernized and added on to over its history. Now it operates as an upscale bed and breakfast.

The impressive columned front entry led into a  bygone era. To help set a mood, guests were treated to Milk Punch, a popular Southern cocktail consisting of milk and brandy or bourbon, a sweetener, vanilla extract and sometimes topped with nutmeg.  As we sipped our refreshments, our host spoke about the home’s history and interesting details.

Jib windows, an architectural feature, were introduced to the guests. What is that? Jib windows were along the front porch and allowed entrance into the home without going through the formal front entry. The lower portion was a short two-part swing out pony door, that allowed the double hung sash to rise up, permitting entry into the home. We were told, former owners  who had business with others could allow them direct entry into their home office through the jib window. As likely, they also allowed more air flow in the summertime and/or for slaves to enter as they were not permitted entry through the front door.

 
Enjoying our milk punch, seating available around the long oval dining table, our guide relayed more about some of the furnishings, including another Punkah (the shoo fly fan) over the table. Continuing the tour, we learned that one of the former female owners (who had 10 children) added a wing that included a kitchen and a laundry room, the kitchen shown as it would have been around 1850. She also schooled her children in another wing added to the house.

Not to forget old car enthusiasts, a 1948 Packard graced the front drive helping rekindle yet another period in Linden’s long and distinguished past.

The day not yet complete, our next home tour was a show-stopper – The Towers of Natchez.

Built in 1790 in the West Indies Architecture style, its appearance was distinctly different than those seen in previous days.  Other architectural styles have also been incorporated during 3 different construction phases. It was striking with two towers that rose up from the well-manicured grounds. Three re-constructions occurred over 100 years including removal of the towers after a fire in 1927. Current owners, Ginger and James Hyland meticulously rebuilt the towers in 2019 in full detail.

Within the surrounding five acre gardens the owner Ginger Hyland, and her husband James, have included elements of former places Ginger lived including bronze sculptures of grizzly bears and elk from her years living in California and Santa Fe, New Mexico. Interestingly, her life began in Michigan. We also learned she was a well accomplished equestrian having owned horse stables in California and New Mexico. It was also intriguing to know that her father was president of Hughes Aircraft Company and credited as one of the men that invented radar.

Both Ginger and James greeted our entourage as we departed the bus. Outdoors, with introductory explanations about the house and its history, we were led into their stunning home.

Oh, what surprises awaited us upon entry inside!

Split into two groups, James, leading ours, displayed a flamboyance and exuberance that made his telling colorful and entertaining.

What was so astounding about The Towers were the extensive and varied collections that populate every room. We were not allowed to take photos, so it is almost impossible to describe the extent of Ginger’s collections. Suffice it to say the varied collections filled every room. Period furniture and antiques abounded in all spaces, decorative art objects, antique laces, beaded purses, crowns and tiaras, Moser glass, Vaseline glass, inkwells, gentlemen’s watch fobs, mother of pearl gaming counters, and unusual objects used in everyday Victorian life. She also has collected many movie props including the cigarette case that Rhett Butler (Clark Gable) handled in the movie “Gone with the Wind”.

It seems, Ginger spares no expense and goes to great efforts to acquire those items that she admires and desires to include in her massive collections.

We also learned that Ginger and James host their annual “Jeweled Christmas” wherein, the entire home is transformed into an even more sparkling display of thousands of pieces of vintage costume jewelry that cover every tree, every table, every mantle, every deer – anything that shimmers and shines – which must be the most fanciful, glittery Christmas display in all of Natchez.

Not to be left without mementos, we then were treated to another Southern libation and invited to browse fantastic shiny things from their Christmas shop. A glass jewel studded river boat ornament caught my eye. Of course, I had to have it as a souvenir of my Mississippi River Cruise and will be prominent on my Christmas Tree.

So, I have to say, while I was not initially impressed with the appearance of The Towers, I left with a much different perspective and impressed with Ginger as an avid collector and host who delights in sharing her life’s story and collections for others to see and admire. She truly is a remarkable lady.

Wow, the Natchez, Mississippi “Legends and Libations” tour was Awesome!

Some of Ginger Hyland’s collections in The Towers Mansion (internet photos)

Back onboard the evening’s entertainment, Dixieland Band, was very good, with upbeat Dixieland  and Cajun music.

 Unfortunately, this Dixieland Band was also very disrespected by an oblivious couple who continually carried on a loud conversation at the bar at the rear of the room. It almost seemed as though, the louder the band played, the more those two spoke louder. Several people, angry scowls on their faces, tried to catch their attention, some standing up from the audience, turning toward the usurpers in an effort to quiet them and many, many other angry stares from others, me included, did not phase them. An otherwise great performance was disrupted by two impertinent selfish people They  should have gotten a room!

Some people!