Antebellum Vicksburg, Mississippi

Chapter 7

Rollin’ On The River

Mississippi River Cruise 2025

Sunday, July 20

Antebellum: Occurring or existing before the American Civil War

Early Sunday morning, The American Splendor deviated from the Mississippi River onto the Yazoo River where we docked in Vicksburg, MS.

Vicksburg was a key port in the American Civil War and crucial for the North to gain control of it. Constant bombarding forced residents to carve out caves and there they lived during the siege. An example of such a cave allowed us to get an idea of how they were thus able to survive in relative safety. Residents brought items from their homes to furnish with the intent of making the living quarters as comfortable as possible.

In a quiet, shaded tree lined residential neighborhood, we toured the Duff Green house, now operated as a B&B. Upon entering the house we were offered another libation. I could get very accustomed to this Southern hospitality. After a lengthy dialogue concerning this Antebellum home, we were allowed to wander about on both floors, where, of notice, was an open grate from the upper hallway looking down to the first-floor hallway. This may have help facilitate ventilation.

A short walk took us to Christ Episcopal Church founded in 1828. During the 47-day siege of Vicksburg by the Union Army, all but one of the stained-glass windows were destroyed. Later, two of the destroyed windows were replaced with Tiffany windows. The minister at the time of the Civil War continued daily services despite the bombardments.

At the dock, on the river side, the flood wall is colorfully decorated with “Welcome to Vicksburg” and on the opposite side are murals representing aspects of the city, past and present. Of note, also, is a marker as tall as the flood wall with markings of flood water depths over the years, 1927 being the highest (at that time) which brought devastating destruction all along the river. That flood and resulting carnage prompted revamping flood control measures to avert/avoid future devastating flood  destruction. One cannot underestimate the staggering power of Ol’ Man River!

Our stop in Vicksburg was brief allowing everyone to enjoy lunch onboard. The 4 of us sat at a side table away from the main, more crowded area. Sitting at the next table a sizable personage of a man sat straddling a dining room chair. Looking over at him, I knew by then who were passengers, and he was not.

So, who was this gigantic person?

I spoke to him saying “you look like an entertainer”. His response was yes indeed, I’m Mississippi Marshall, a blues singer, the evening’s entertainment. Marshall had boarded in Vicksburg and would be spending the night onboard (and longer as it turned out). He told us more about Blues music, history and the changing course of the Mississippi River. We looked forward to attending his performance in the evening.

As we sailed on, the remainder of the afternoon was spent playing a fun card game, “5 Crowns” that Penny brought with her.

We played until dinner and after left to the Sky Lounge hoping to get seats next to the stage for Mississippi Marshall’s performance. From our lunch time conversations, he remembered something Penny said and so dedicated a song to her. That was very thoughtful and sweet. It was obvious that Marshall was passionate about his music and songs, as his whole body was as involved as his fingers on the guitar. Unlike the previous evening, this performance was a delight and uplifting.

Upon leaving the lounge, we learned that the Coast Guard had ordered all river traffic to make toward shore. Apparently, a barge tug (boat that pushes the barges) had run aground on a sandbar and the barges got away, drifting along with the current. To avoid any collisions to other ships on the river, clearing the waterway would be the safest maneuver. 

Returning to our room, the ship sailed on. I read for a while until about 10:30 when I heard a loud scraping sound, as in running upon rocks. Looking out the patio window I saw we HAD beached on a rocky shore.

Intent on investigating the situation, I went out and forward on the boat, I looked down at the crew who were busily securing the ship to the shore. Spotlights helped them negotiate in the darkness. Calling down to the crew, they reiterated about the Coast Guard orders to clear the river due to the wayward barges. They were well trained, as they told me, and handily completed their tasks to secure us.

Returning to the room, shortly thereafter, I turned in for the night. The ship also, seemingly, turned in for the night, remaining still, resting against the shore.

A couple more unanticipated surprises awaited us the following day.