Rollin’ On The River-Prologue

Prologue

A Mississippi River Cruise

July 15-24, 2025

Mark Twain

Huckleberry Finn

Tom Sawyer

 Paddle Wheel River Boats

Antebellum Plantation Homes

I don’t know about you, but for me these names have always conjured up thoughts and images of a by gone era in our country’s history, notably that of the Old South. Although that era has an overabundance of misery for slavery and man’s inhumanity to man, there also exists elements of romance, elegance and gentility during the early years of this country. I remember, in my youth, having read (and re-read later in life) the adventures of Huck Finn and Tom Sawyer, and more recently a new book “James”, a telling of the Tom Sawyer tales through the eyes of the negro slave James. After reading “James” late in 2024, it got me to thinking about the unifying aspect of all those stories and an idea for my 2025 summer vacation, a cruise.

On the Mississippi River.

The Mighty Mississippi, The Big Muddy, Old Man River, all monikers for the second longest river in the United States, stretching from northern Minnesota to New Orleans, Louisiana, discharging into the Gulf of Mexico.

Wouldn’t it be grand to be able to experience or somewhat relive a part of that bygone time, and maybe even on a paddle wheel boat? Like a paddle wheel churning through the water, I earnestly began searching for trip ideas.

Finding ‘Vacations to Go’, a company representing American Cruise Lines, I thought a 9-day lower Mississippi cruise, from New Orleans, Louisiana to Memphis, Tennessee would be a good fit. A full-length trip of 19 days seemed excessive.

Having traveled with Mark N., my travel companion, I cast out a line to he and his sister and brother-in-law, Penny and Stu, to see if they would bite on the idea. We three had previously cruised to Cuba and had a terrific time, so this seemed like a good fit for all of us.

All three onboard with the idea, we sailed forward in the planning.

In the days and weeks to follow I will send out story chapters of my cruise experiences on Ol’ Man River.

From the musical “Showboat” to set the tone:

 “ Ol’ man river,

Dat ol’ man river,

 He jes’ keeps rollin’,

He keeps on rollin’ along”

I’m also “dat ol’ man’ and I hope you “keeps on rollin’ along” with me.

Your feedback, comments and subscribing to my blog are encouraged and appreciated.

(I also need to give credit for stirring up this vacation idea to Roger LeLievre, a former co-worker at The Ann Arbor News who completed a Mississippi River cruise last summer. Unfortunately, the company that Roger booked in 2024 has ceased operations, but alternate cruises were active.)

• Roughin’ ItAugust 18, 2026

  June 17, 2026

  #4 – Devine Providence

  All packed up and ready to roll. Climbing behind the wheel, I turned the key.

  

  Click…

  What?

  I paused briefly, some panic piercing my otherwise calm demeanor.

  Deep breath – carefully turned the key again – a millisecond click and then the engine caught and roared to life. I looked over at Mark, my eyes somewhat wide and alarmed. This would not be a very good situation, stranded in the woods miles away from any type of auto service. BUT, the 4Runner was alive and we were rolling, so maybe all was well-or was it?

  (In reality, this part of the North Rim would not have posed much hardship in being stranded. As I noted earlier there was another group not far away, and it might have been possible to get some assistance from them. We had food and water, we would not have perished of thirst or hunger).

  

  That scary moment of fear immediately had me thinking. Apparently, my battery had an issue that must be resolved before we ventured into an even more unforgiving place. And it puzzled me because less than 6 weeks prior I had my vehicle serviced at the dealership with no inspection report about a weak battery. It was at that servicing that they recommended the new tires and shocks. How could they not have tested the battery so that I would not encounter a situation like this?

  

  At any rate, we were on the move again.  Maybe it was just some little glitch – but maybe something more??? We headed out on the way to Fredonia, to re-fuel at a Chevron station. Alongside the gas station we bought breakfast sandwiches from Em’s Café, a roadside food stand.

  Having nearly forgotten the almost no start episode, I went to start the vehicle and the alarm went off. No attempts on my part would silence the annoying sound. In time the alarm stopped. What the heck was that all about?

  Ok, here we go. NO!! Same thing. Turning the key set off the alarm again! (insert some nasty words here).

  Third try, ok, it started and I quickly moved it to the gas pump to fill up. Meanwhile, Mark asked in the store about any local service stations and we were directed to a place in Kanab, UT, just across the Arizona border 7 miles up the road. Thankfully no problems starting this time or on the way to have the battery checked.

  Just over the border into Utah, Little’s diesel service checked my battery. It was nearly dead! I thanked my lucky stars, my higher power, my guiding spirits for alerting us that a dire situation was in store unless I took it seriously to correct it. Toroweap, our next destination, is NOT a place anyone would want to be stranded as I will soon tell.

  Now confident and happy, I felt even more prepared for what lie ahead of us this day.

  Full gas tank, ample water supply, new tires, new shocks, new battery. Bring it on!

• Roughin’ It!August 13, 2026

  #3 – Starry nights, Beautiful Sunrises

  

  As dusk settled down over the forest and into the canyon, heavenly stars began their stage entrance high in the heavens. With such clearness, the brilliance and abundance of all those twinkling points of lights filled the darkness above us. The Big Dipper, of course, being the first formation to be recognized. I gazed through the windows from my rooftop tent, lying back, marveling at the site. 

  Night brought deep darkness and cool breezes that drifted through the pine needles, their soft whispering like a sedative, easing away any lingering tension. As evening settled in, the cooling breeze became a soothing balm for peaceful sleep.

  With the setting sun much cooler air descended upon us. While I slept comfortably up in my rooftop NatureNest, snuggled in my sleeping bag with a pillow and blanket, Mark, in the tent on the ground tried to manage discomfort on his inflatable mattress and sleeping bag. Next morning he told me he needed a better arrangement. So, for the next nights we made space in the back of the 4Runner, dropping the back seat forward and keeping the tailgate open so that he could stretch out and hopefully find more comfort there. With some adjustments over the next days, he found it to be much better and could rest more comfortably. 

  

  During the next day, we packed up and moved to Timp Point, the southernmost point on the Rainbow Rim Trail. This too was a good place for the views into the canyon and a more secluded campsite. A group or bicyclists were camped nearby, who were quiet and out of sight of our camp. After setting up camp we hiked south on the trail where we met up with the bicyclists. After some chatting Mark and I continued on. I had believed we were headed toward another overlook, but after hours of hiking, the sun and heat were too intense.

  

  We headed back to Timp Point. Not intending to have gone so far, we had hiked 9 miles. I was really dragging by the time we returned. Then midafternoon, it was time to just rest, read or listen to music. And to get clean.

  With all the outdoor sun exposure, heat and sweat, our bodies were becoming a bit odorferious. Time to bath!

  And how does one do that in the wilderness?

  

  With a solar shower bag. A plastic bag holding about 3 gallons of water, one side clear and other black. With a small tube ending with a shower nozzle, the bag was placed in the sunlight and within about an hour +/-, the water is usually hot enough to take an outdoor shower. From experience, if left out in the sun for several hours, the water becomes scalding.

  Hung up on a tree limb, pulling down the nozzle, an adequate amount of hot water is released for a comfortable cleansing.

  Our second night was still and warmer. I am a cool sleeper, cool, like in temperature not like I’m an egotist, bragging on myself. Warm temps make it more difficult to get to sleep and to stay asleep, for me. Though restless, I did have the stars above to view until I naturally drifted off to sleep. Waking during the night, I would gaze out my windows and see just how the sky had changed over time, new stars replaced the first as the earth continued its revolution throughout the night.

  Sunrise from the North Rim looking out into the canyon was so beautiful. With the rising sun behind us, the first rays of sunlight were cast upon the distant opposite canyon walls. Slowly at first, the distant top edges caught the early morning’s golden glow.

  

  Then gradually as the sun rose higher behind us, that golden light flowed downward like warm honey, melting the shadows in its descension while brightening the colors on the cliffs, walls and trees within the chasm. Shadows hung deeply below us but eventually even those melted away as the sun, rising ever higher, cast it brilliance deep down into the depths. It was an awesome way to start the day, with a cup of coffee watching a new day awaken before our eyes.

  

  

  

  Our third day we would move on to the roughest segment of this trip – Toroweap Overlook.

  OH, but this day had an early surprise for us. 

  Would we be able to continue the adventures?

• Roughin’ ItAugust 1, 2026

  #2 Into the Ponderosa Pine Forest

  

  From Phoenix to Jacob’s Lake and then into the interior of the North Rim Lodge area was about 350miles. This land mass north of the Grand Canyon is known as the Arizona Strip. Since the Canyon and Colorado River are natural barriers that cuts that area off from lower Arizona, the sparse population there are more closely connected to Southern Utah. The towns of St. George, Hurricane, Kanab, UT and Colorado City, AZ or Page, AZ further to the east, are the most prominent places for commerce to the few inhabitants living in the Arizona Strip, and even then, unpaved roads therein make it more inhospitable to manage living there. It is truly a rugged place, albeit a place of immense wild beauty and solitude. The area’s rugged remoteness weeds out the faint of heart from venturing very far into this wilderness. 

  First place to visit was in the North Rim Lodge area that burned in 2025, but our camping spots were further into the forest along the Rainbow Rim trail miles away from the burn area. All roads leading into these remote areas are unpaved, the main one, Route 22 is a well-maintained gravel road and easy going. The forest roads branching off the main road leading out to the remote overlook points are narrower and slow going, all which makes the journey more exciting and worth the effort to reach the seclusion I desired. 

  

  A consequence of driving those roads was dust. Tires kicked up a cloudy trail of dust that covered and obscured the rear window while more lightly settling all over my Toyota 4Runner. Not only on the outside, but  fine dust managed to infiltrate the interior, though not as thick as on the exterior. A tarp, covering our equipment inside, lessened the need to brush or wipe things down after every drive. Upon returning home, I spent a couple hours dusting, vacuuming, wiping all of the interior.

  Other than some Forest Service vehicles and maybe two private ones, our drive into the area was alone. My preferred camp site was at Locust Point, the place I first camped on my earliest visits. However, as we approached my favorite spot, we found others already had taken that space. No problem, a little further on, we stopped and set up camp near the overlook at Locust Point. 

  

  The distant points at the end of the side forest roads, all connected by the Rainbow Rim trail, are Timp, North Timp, Locust, Fence and Parissawampitts Points.  Like fingers that stretch out into the canyon, these points are remote, offering adventurous souls solitude and tremendous views into the vastness of this natural wonder. Distances between points vary from 3 to 6.5 miles depending on which one to another a person plans to travel. You see, the trail is not a straight line along an edge, but weaves in and out of the forest, broken by side canyons, drainages and ravines as the trail follows in and around or through those natural elements of the terrain.  Both mountain bikers and hikers avail themselves to the trail. While much of the trail wanders into and through the Ponderosa Pine forest, at times it comes close to the rim edge with stunning views into the canyon. There, at 8000 feet above sea level, the forest monopolizes the landscape providing some shade and stillness. 

  

  Setting up camp, Mark used a small tent next to my 4Runner. With a blow-up air mattress and sleeping bag, his nest for the night was set until we retired after dark. Meanwhile, I opened my roof top tent, threw up a sleeping pad and bag, plus blanket and pillow for my nightly nest.

  After that preparation we took a short walk along that portion of the Rainbow Rim trail, savoring the walk amongst the pines and peering into the wide expanse of the Grand Canyon admiring and absorbing the views along the way. 

  

  Telling Mark of some past experiences at Locust Point, I relayed my first visit there when I also drove a 4Runner. Being somewhat fearful of night creatures, wolves?, bears?, coyotes?, I devised a plan to help protect myself in case of an attack. (To clarify, I don’t think there are wolves or bears in that forest, but, still, I was trying to plan for any possibility). The plan was to use my key fob and hit the panic button/alarm in case I was accosted by any kind of forest creature – or humanoid creature – Big Foot?. I had noted, near my campsite there was a large bone fragment, possibly a hind quarter of a deer but gave it no further thought as I drifted off to sleep.

  Snarling! Growling! – sounds outside my tent startled me awake and that nearly made my blood run cold.

   At least two creatures were skulking about very near my tent. Panic has a way of sharpening the imagination, I was almost sure they were not prowling just outside the thin tent walls ready to attack with claws tearing through the flimsy fabric, but who knows what evil lurks? In an instant, I grabbed my key fob and hit the alarm button. The alarm shattered the dark silence, echoing through the canyon. Aside from one frightened yelp, the night soon reclaimed its quiet—and I reclaimed my senses. Ahhh, back to sleep, never to be bothered again. In the morning I saw that the bones had been moved. Most likely competing coyotes were attempting to claim the prize until I scared the begeebees out of them.

  

  Thankfully such excitement would not impose during our sleep while we were camping this time.

  Others were also camping in the area, but at some distance as to not disturb us – solitude and peace soon settled in. No outside influences, no Facebook, TV, messages, emails, news or other worldly concerns would interfere for a full week away. 

  What a relief to be free of those intrusions. 

  

  

  Our freeze dried meals were really quite tasty. Just. add boiling water, and soon after dinner was served.

• Roughin’ ItJuly 29, 2026

  Over the past 27 years I have had some active, exciting, challenging, strenuous, fun and awesome adventures. This latest one was a continuation of the same.

  

  For 2026, I wanted to revisit and camp at two places on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon where I had previously visited. Additionally, I hoped to venture on into Southen Utah to Zion National Park or nearby to explore canyons – even, hopefully, to do some canyoneering/rappelling down into one of those slot canyons. Agreeing to join me on this adventure was my friend Mark B. That he has the same sense of adventure plus being a navigator, was a relief to me throughout the journey.

  

  The places I intended to visit were:

  1. The North Rim of the Grand Canyon near Jacob’s Lake off of Rt. 89 in the eastern portion, near the North Rim Lodge that burned down in 2025. This area is at a higher elevation and is forested with Ponderosa Pines.   

  2. Toroweap Overlook, also on the North Rim, but to the west and more open, not forested, rugged landscape.

  3. Southern Utah at Zion Ponderosa Ranch to explore into at least one slot canyon.

  Another segment of my 2026 Summer Escape from the Phoenix, Arizona oven, will be to travel even further north to Wyoming and Montana in August. More to come about that adventure.

  Monday, June 15, 2026.

  Leaving Phoenix at 7:30 AM, we had beautiful weather, brilliant white clouds floating in contrast against a clear blue sky. Exiting US Rt. 89  south of Page, AZ onto US Rt  89A led us across the Colorado River at Marble Canyon.

  Approaching Marble Canyon, stunning reddish cliffs stood in sharp contrast against the bright blue sky. These are the Vermillion Cliffs. The bright sunshine upon them brought out deep vibrant colors.

  

  

  Two bridges adjacent to each other cross the river at Marble Canyon. One is the original Navajo Bridge completed in 1929 and is now strictly a pedestrian bridge. As vehicle weights and sizes increased, a new bridge was built, opening in 1995.

  An interpretive center over the crossing gave information about the building of the bridges. Prior to the bridges being built, travelers had to go 800 miles to cross the Colorado River. Lee’s Ferry, east of Marble Canyon was the only means to cross over in that area by means of a raft ferrying people, animals and commodities from one side to the other. Building the bridges allowed more settlers and commodities to travel into the area. Here, we had our first view of the river in this narrow canyon. An added bonus was the sight of several California condors perched on the iron struts under the new bridge.

  Once across the river we continued to our first destination-out into the Ponderosa Pine forest over dusty unpaved roads to remote camping points that looked out into the vast Grand Canyon.
  

  

  

  

  

  

• End of the LineOctober 26, 2025

  

  Rollin’ On The River

  Chapter 10

  Mississippi River Cruise 2025

  Wednesday, July 23

  Having moseyed Northward upon the Mighty Mississippi River for 7 days, our relaxing trip was drawing to a close.

  But, more was awaiting us at the end of the line in Memphis, Tennessee.

  No lollygagging, sleeping in, or otherwise not on your toes on this last day, Everyone on board were required to be up and at ’em at near the crack of dawn.

  A quick breakfast in the Sky Lounge and then time to leave the ship. Having pre-arranged transportation from the ship, we were driven to a motel near  the airport and soon after dropping our bags in our room, called a taxi and were driven to Graceland Mansion in time for our 10:30 reservation.

  

  Graceland, the home of the late Elvis Presley, musician, singer, entertainer was the focus of this last day in Memphis, TN. On a busy street, it sets back from it on well-groomed grounds shaded by tall mature trees. Elvis’s mansion sits atop a higher knoll.

  After a brief introduction at the entrance and receiving our audio headsets for our guided tour, we entered. The audio devices helped lead us through the home. My first impressions would be in the locality of “tacky”. Although the home did look comfortable and spacious, areas of the place were definitely on the wild and crazy side (and dare I say atrocious) including a totally plaid basement room and the jungle room with green shag carpeting in its entirety from floor, walls and ceiling. Weighted down in that ghastly green were heavy, oversized furniture with a definite jungle feel. Apparently, a lot of his jam sessions were in this room.

  

  It would be interesting to know, had Elvis lived, how the house would look now. Hopefully he would have had better decorators. Don’t get me wrong with my take on Graceland mansion’s interior, it really is dated and a reflection of style in the early 1970’s and could be true to the era. I just don’t remember the 70’s being so lacking in taste. Money doesn’t buy taste or style.

  Writing what I just wrote gets me  to thinking. In all the antebellum homes that we visited as we cruised up the Mississippi, those homes reflected the furnishings and styles of those years. And yet, somehow, in my thinking, I did not consider those homes to be outlandish or otherwise lacking in taste. In those homes, it is what I would expect. My opinion, whatever it is worth, is that Graceland mansion, even in its day was not a decorator’s prize.

  Moving on.

  Outdoors and in outlying buildings other parts of his life were also on the tour including his family history through photos and displays. A somber part of the tour is the Meditation Garden wherein are four large gravesites of Elvis, his mother and father, Gladys and Vernon, and his paternal grandmother Minnie May Presley. Elsewhere at Graceland rests his stillborn twin brother Jesse Garon Presley, daughter Lisa Marie and her son Benjamin Keough. It is humbling that to this day Elvis Presley has loving and devoted fans who honor him with flowers and mementos.

  

  Across the street, from the mansion is the rest of Elvis’s property. A bus took us on the short jaunt and released us to the hot, humid climate. Luckily most everything to be seen is in air-conditioned buildings, exceptions being Elvis’s two airplanes, one large, the Lisa Marie, the other much smaller.

  

  

  Elvis’s Automobile Museum houses over 20 of his vehicles. It is quite a nice collection.

  Within the complex across from the mansion the ICONS collections display wardrobes, musician’s instruments and other artifacts from many other music artists and entertainers all influenced by The King of Rock and Roll such as KISS, Elton John, Dolly Parton, John Lennon, Ricky Nelson and many more. These displays were well thought out and included some videos from Elvis’s past. To think so many musicians are indebted to this remarkable man is quite extraordinary.

  By this time, I was feeling pretty overwhelmed trying to take in all of these things relating back to Elvis. But more was to be seen. Briefly, one room dedicated to his gold and platinum records displayed  those records extending high and wide upon a wall.

  

  Another mind-blowing room displayed a vast array of the jumpsuits worn by The King. Encased in displays that extend upwards of 20 feet  these stage costumes are works of art. Imaginative, colorful, vibrant and flamboyant, it was surprising to see how extensive was his wardrobe.

  

  

  

  

  

  Reportedly, a banana and peanut butter sandwich was an Elvis favorite . Since it was offered in the onsite Glady’s Restaurant, I ordered it for lunch. All I will say is, I tried it. Not something I would probably eat again.

  Despite the heat and humidity, as I had noted previously, most of the Elvis experience was indoors. It is worth seeing allowing one to better understand his life, especially, for me, his love for his family. All the other stuff is glitz and glamour – in my opinion.

  

  We had time to chill back at the motel before an Uber drive took us back to Beale Street. Not yet dark, open to pedestrian traffic, the street was alive with activity, street performers and a huge motorcycle show, bikes lined both sides of the street. I was taken with all of the neon signage, adding a colorful glow to the atmosphere, much as it was in New Orlean’s French Quarter.

  I wrote in the last chapter that the last evenings entertainer on The American Splendor, Brad Birkendahl, had invited us to hear him play at Blues City Café on Beale Street. We did just that. He had just started playing as we sat down. Ordering a half slab of BBQ ribs accompanied with thick cut French fries, baked beans, coleslaw and Texas toast. That, with drinks, covered the entire table.

  

  The dinner was great and so too Brad’s band. Not only a gifted vocalist, but he also played multiple instruments including guitar and horn. The rest of his band were perfect and in sync with all the music and songs they presented. During a break, he saw us and stopped to chat, expressing his thanks for stopping by. It was our pleasure to include this experience as a wrap up of our trip.

  

  A brief stop at the famous Peabody Hotel, just to check it out and we were then back on our way to our hotel for our last evening in Memphis.

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  To enlarge any individual photo, click on that image

  If you are looking for a nice, relaxing, laid-back experience that includes some of the important history of America, a walk back in time, music and traditions, beautiful old antebellum mansions, characters who helped shaped America’s destiny and cities that grew up along the Big Muddy and their influence on this country, you cannot go wrong.

  Not to be forgotten are current characters and players who made our experiences so memorable and who will leave their personal marks on many lives.

  

  (An unsolicited plug: American Cruise Lines did a great job. I would recommend them and look forward to experiencing another river trip in the US).

  Early the next day, Thursday, we were soon on our way back home, bracing for re-entry into the Phoenix furnace where temperatures rose to nearly 110°.

  Don’t fall for that “but it’s a dry heat” line. Even with lower humidity HOT is HOT!

  As I conclude this narrative of “Rollin’ On the River”, I’ve taken pleasure in sharing it with you. May all my stories enlighten, entertain and encourage you to get out and experience this awesome world.

  I encourage readers of these blog stories to share with others.

  Don Kline.

  

Roughin’ It

June 17, 2026 #4 – Devine Providence All packed up and ready to roll. Climbing behind the wheel, I turned the key. Click… What? I paused briefly, some panic piercing my otherwise calm demeanor. Deep breath – carefully turned the key again – a millisecond click and then the engine caught and roared to life.…

by azdon120 August 18, 2026August 18, 2026

Roughin’ It!

#3 – Starry nights, Beautiful Sunrises As dusk settled down over the forest and into the canyon, heavenly stars began their stage entrance high in the heavens. With such clearness, the brilliance and abundance of all those twinkling points of lights filled the darkness above us. The Big Dipper, of course, being the first formation…

by azdon120 August 13, 2026

Roughin’ It

#2 Into the Ponderosa Pine Forest From Phoenix to Jacob’s Lake and then into the interior of the North Rim Lodge area was about 350miles. This land mass north of the Grand Canyon is known as the Arizona Strip. Since the Canyon and Colorado River are natural barriers that cuts that area off from lower…

by azdon120 August 1, 2026