Rollin’ On The River-Prologue

Prologue

A Mississippi River Cruise

July 15-24, 2025

Mark Twain

Huckleberry Finn

Tom Sawyer

 Paddle Wheel River Boats

Antebellum Plantation Homes

I don’t know about you, but for me these names have always conjured up thoughts and images of a by gone era in our country’s history, notably that of the Old South. Although that era has an overabundance of misery for slavery and man’s inhumanity to man, there also exists elements of romance, elegance and gentility during the early years of this country. I remember, in my youth, having read (and re-read later in life) the adventures of Huck Finn and Tom Sawyer, and more recently a new book “James”, a telling of the Tom Sawyer tales through the eyes of the negro slave James. After reading “James” late in 2024, it got me to thinking about the unifying aspect of all those stories and an idea for my 2025 summer vacation, a cruise.

On the Mississippi River.

The Mighty Mississippi, The Big Muddy, Old Man River, all monikers for the second longest river in the United States, stretching from northern Minnesota to New Orleans, Louisiana, discharging into the Gulf of Mexico.

Wouldn’t it be grand to be able to experience or somewhat relive a part of that bygone time, and maybe even on a paddle wheel boat? Like a paddle wheel churning through the water, I earnestly began searching for trip ideas.

Finding ‘Vacations to Go’, a company representing American Cruise Lines, I thought a 9-day lower Mississippi cruise, from New Orleans, Louisiana to Memphis, Tennessee would be a good fit. A full-length trip of 19 days seemed excessive.

Having traveled with Mark N., my travel companion, I cast out a line to he and his sister and brother-in-law, Penny and Stu, to see if they would bite on the idea. We three had previously cruised to Cuba and had a terrific time, so this seemed like a good fit for all of us.

All three onboard with the idea, we sailed forward in the planning.

In the days and weeks to follow I will send out story chapters of my cruise experiences on Ol’ Man River.

From the musical “Showboat” to set the tone:

 “ Ol’ man river,

Dat ol’ man river,

 He jes’ keeps rollin’,

He keeps on rollin’ along”

I’m also “dat ol’ man’ and I hope you “keeps on rollin’ along” with me.

Your feedback, comments and subscribing to my blog are encouraged and appreciated.

(I also need to give credit for stirring up this vacation idea to Roger LeLievre, a former co-worker at The Ann Arbor News who completed a Mississippi River cruise last summer. Unfortunately, the company that Roger booked in 2024 has ceased operations, but alternate cruises were active.)

• Roughin’ ItOctober 6, 2026

  #6 – Set up camp

  

  
  June 17, 2026

  
  After all the jostling on the road into Toroweap, we found one other site occupied near us.
  Being a good neighbor I walked over and introduced myself to JT. He and his friend Shawn were ex-military on a mission across the US from Key West, FL to Los Angeles, CA to Flagstaff, AZ. Their nonprofit “Roll For Veterans” support Team RWB (Red, White, Blue) helping empower vets through physical activity, meaningful connections and social engagement to remind vets they are not alone. At Toroweap they were nearing completion of 4545 miles in 120 days. In early July they were also taking a Colorado River trip through the Grand Canyon.

  

  
  Mark and I quickly set up our camp nearby, then walked about a mile to the overlook. From past visits, that portion of the road had deteriorated significantly. On the earlier visit there, sedans (one time a Mercedes Benz) were capable of driving nearer the edge (maybe 400 feet away where placed boulders prevented driving further). Not now. The road’s unevenness, drop offs and rockiness were horrific. It was just as well that Mark and I walked to the edge.
  For me, it was re-visiting a familiar location that still held excitement and fascination for me. The sheer red cliffs dropping directly down to the river still held me in awe, as did the wild rock formations, some seeming to teeter on the edges. Others, like petrified crashed flying saucers, lay akilter upon the surface.

  

  

  

  From the edge high above, these photos show the depth of the chasm through which the Colorado River flows.

  

  

  As they always have been, the views from these vantage points were incredible, my photos helping readers feel the experience and how awesome this place is.

  

  

  
  Walking back to camp, we completed set-up in preparation of eating dinner and for sleeping. After the long day and dinner, we read awhile before turning in for the night. I stayed up a bit longer before climbing the ladder into my rooftop nest. The night was clear, but warm, no need for a sleeping bag or blanket. It took me some time before I could fall asleep but gazed out my tent windows marveling at all the stars that crowded the dark sky. What a pleasant way to end our eventful, adventurous day.

  

• Roughin’ ItOctober 1, 2026

  #5- Rough Road Ahead

  June 17, 2026 continued.

  

  Toroweap Overlook – an even more remote and secluded area over very rough unpaved roads. I had visited there about 5 times previously, the first in 1999 after having rafted the mighty Colorado River with a group of about 20 men.

  Reaching Toroweap was a gripping experience; like tightly gripping the steering wheel or the “oh shit!” handles. Nerve-wracking also.

  

  8 miles west of Fredonia, Arizona one will find the Mount Trumbull Road that leads the explorer south 61 miles into the vast empty Arizona Strip and out to the very edge of the Grand Canyon overlooking the Colorado River far below. Signage as one enters that unpaved road cautions (warns?) drivers that the road ahead is rough and 4-wheel drive, high clearance vehicles are recommended. That warning needs to be heeded.

  

  No services are available after leaving the paved highway heading down that long, rough road—no gas stations, water sources, grocery stores, restaurants, or cell service. Having just completed all the safety issues, installing a new battery, in Kanab, Utah, we set forth.

  Careful preparation is essential; without it, travelers risk serious consequences, including life-threatening danger. Summer heat greatly increases those risks. Somewhere along the route, I believe I saw a sign warning that vehicle retrievals can cost more than $1,000.

  Having a Toyota 4Runner with all new tires and shocks, high clearance, 4-wheel drive, at least 12 gallons of water, food, a full tank of fuel, new battery and my travel companion, Mark B, we were as prepared as we could be to venture forward to the edge of the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. A dose of nerves of steel was also beneficial.

  The beginning of the Mount Trumbull Road, although unpaved gravel, looked unassuming. It looked tame enough and was – for a while.

  As I wrote previously, the road was rough, even back in 1999 upon my first excursion to Toroweap overlook. At times the surface was quite smooth allowing for more speed, but then rocky surfaces reappeared again diminishing  speed to under 20 mph or less. However the road conditions were, the scenery was captivating. Occasionally free-range cattle, some with calves, were grazing or just lying down, with no cares in the world. At times it was wide open grassy plains, or wide expanses of sagebrush, areas of pinion pines and junipers, and then coming over a crest, views of distant mountains that stretched across the horizon. The rocky portions of the road with slow going actually allowed us time to savor the vast expanse all around us. When the sailing was smoother, and then unexpectedly hitting a rough patch, my vehicle might start squirming on the road, its rear end fish tailing a bit until slowing down. And so it went for the next hours.

  

  More than 55 miles in, there is a ranger station, a stop sign and opened gate. In past visits I have stopped there and if a ranger was in residence, would chat a bit before continuing to the overlook and campground. The station consisted of a craftsman style house maybe built in the 1930’s?  and some outbuildings. Stopping, we were greeted by a volunteer ranger. Apparently with government cuts, they no longer have National Park rangers on resident duty. This man worked several days consecutively, then was relieved by another volunteer on a schedule. The place had no electricity but had solar panels. He preferred sleeping out on the house porch where it was cooler in the summer. He patrolled a large area, on his bicycle!

  I relayed this story to him:

  On my first visit to Toroweap in 1999 when driving my new 1999 4Runner. On that trip, as on successive ones, the same cautions were posted as one began the trek toward Toroweap. Along the way I had passed a road grader sitting along the side of the road but gave it little thought. Because of the rocky surface, and about halfway into the drive, 30+ miles, I thought to check my tires. OH, OH! I had a rear tire going soft! Bummer!

  As the 4Runner was still new to me, I did not know where to find the spare. Pulling out the  owner’s manual, I discovered it and how to lower it. Changing it was no problem. A van approached from the south, its inhabitants offered help, but by then I had the situation under control and soon was on my way. That being my first time on this drive, I started to realize the significance of the warnings at the start of the road.

  

  When I approached the ranger station then, in 1999, a ranger was in residence, and we chatted for some time. He asked me if I had seen a road grader along my drive. “Why yes, I did”, whereupon the ranger told me he fixed more flat tires when the road was being graded.

  “Whoa, wait! You can fix flat tires?”

  “Yes, it’s a plug but will do the job”

  “Well then, I have a job for you.”

  

  He explained that road grading broke the rocks and left sharp edges that often punctured tires. I pulled out my flat, and he set to work with tire-changing equipment—removing it from the rim, forcing in a rubber plug, remounting it, and airing it back up. I felt incredibly lucky that the ranger was there and able to fix the problem, and even luckier that I made the trip out without another flat.

  This trip, as we talked with the volunteer ranger, I noticed the same well-worn tire-changing device that looked as if it had seen plenty of recent use. It was reassuring to know that travelers with punctured tires might still have some hope to not be stranded way out there.

  Subsequent trips to Toroweap were usually without incidence, as I hoped this one would be also. In 2018 I was not able to completely drive to Toroweap as the road condition near to the end was so treacherous over rocky terrain that attempting so would have destroyed the GMC Terrain that I was then driving. I’m sure, with all the protruding rocks and uneven landscape, that that car’s undercarriage would have been ripped off.

  If the first 50-60 plus miles into Toroweap were marked by occasional rough, rocky stretches, the final 3 to 4 miles were truly challenging. Though the road widened into broad, flat rock, its uneven shelves rose and dropped at varying heights, forcing us to crawl forward as the 4Runner twisted side to side, climbing and descending an uneven staircase while bumping and bouncing the whole way.

  At one spot the shelf that confronted us stopped me cold. How in the world will I tackle this? Of course I do have 4 wheel drive, but had so seldom used it, that Mark pulled out the owner’s manual, to give me instructions on how to engage it. 

  

  Heavy sigh.

  OK, here we go – slowly, steadily, surely, we crept up and over the obstacles.

  And so, it continued all the way to the campsite area.

  Another heavy sigh, as I backed into the flat surface of campsite #1 and stopped.

  Relief! We made it!

• Roughin’ ItAugust 18, 2026

  June 17, 2026

  #4 – Devine Providence

  All packed up and ready to roll. Climbing behind the wheel, I turned the key.

  

  Click…

  What?

  I paused briefly, some panic piercing my otherwise calm demeanor.

  Deep breath – carefully turned the key again – a millisecond click and then the engine caught and roared to life. I looked over at Mark, my eyes somewhat wide and alarmed. This would not be a very good situation, stranded in the woods miles away from any type of auto service. BUT, the 4Runner was alive and we were rolling, so maybe all was well-or was it?

  (In reality, this part of the North Rim would not have posed much hardship in being stranded. As I noted earlier there was another group not far away, and it might have been possible to get some assistance from them. We had food and water, we would not have perished of thirst or hunger).

  

  That scary moment of fear immediately had me thinking. Apparently, my battery had an issue that must be resolved before we ventured into an even more unforgiving place. And it puzzled me because less than 6 weeks prior I had my vehicle serviced at the dealership with no inspection report about a weak battery. It was at that servicing that they recommended the new tires and shocks. How could they not have tested the battery so that I would not encounter a situation like this?

  

  At any rate, we were on the move again.  Maybe it was just some little glitch – but maybe something more??? We headed out on the way to Fredonia, to re-fuel at a Chevron station. Alongside the gas station we bought breakfast sandwiches from Em’s Café, a roadside food stand.

  Having nearly forgotten the almost no start episode, I went to start the vehicle and the alarm went off. No attempts on my part would silence the annoying sound. In time the alarm stopped. What the heck was that all about?

  Ok, here we go. NO!! Same thing. Turning the key set off the alarm again! (insert some nasty words here).

  Third try, ok, it started and I quickly moved it to the gas pump to fill up. Meanwhile, Mark asked in the store about any local service stations and we were directed to a place in Kanab, UT, just across the Arizona border 7 miles up the road. Thankfully no problems starting this time or on the way to have the battery checked.

  Just over the border into Utah, Little’s diesel service checked my battery. It was nearly dead! I thanked my lucky stars, my higher power, my guiding spirits for alerting us that a dire situation was in store unless I took it seriously to correct it. Toroweap, our next destination, is NOT a place anyone would want to be stranded as I will soon tell.

  Now confident and happy, I felt even more prepared for what lie ahead of us this day.

  Full gas tank, ample water supply, new tires, new shocks, new battery. Bring it on!

• Roughin’ It!August 13, 2026

  #3 – Starry nights, Beautiful Sunrises

  

  As dusk settled down over the forest and into the canyon, heavenly stars began their stage entrance high in the heavens. With such clearness, the brilliance and abundance of all those twinkling points of lights filled the darkness above us. The Big Dipper, of course, being the first formation to be recognized. I gazed through the windows from my rooftop tent, lying back, marveling at the site. 

  Night brought deep darkness and cool breezes that drifted through the pine needles, their soft whispering like a sedative, easing away any lingering tension. As evening settled in, the cooling breeze became a soothing balm for peaceful sleep.

  With the setting sun much cooler air descended upon us. While I slept comfortably up in my rooftop NatureNest, snuggled in my sleeping bag with a pillow and blanket, Mark, in the tent on the ground tried to manage discomfort on his inflatable mattress and sleeping bag. Next morning he told me he needed a better arrangement. So, for the next nights we made space in the back of the 4Runner, dropping the back seat forward and keeping the tailgate open so that he could stretch out and hopefully find more comfort there. With some adjustments over the next days, he found it to be much better and could rest more comfortably. 

  

  During the next day, we packed up and moved to Timp Point, the southernmost point on the Rainbow Rim Trail. This too was a good place for the views into the canyon and a more secluded campsite. A group or bicyclists were camped nearby, who were quiet and out of sight of our camp. After setting up camp we hiked south on the trail where we met up with the bicyclists. After some chatting Mark and I continued on. I had believed we were headed toward another overlook, but after hours of hiking, the sun and heat were too intense.

  

  We headed back to Timp Point. Not intending to have gone so far, we had hiked 9 miles. I was really dragging by the time we returned. Then midafternoon, it was time to just rest, read or listen to music. And to get clean.

  With all the outdoor sun exposure, heat and sweat, our bodies were becoming a bit odorferious. Time to bath!

  And how does one do that in the wilderness?

  

  With a solar shower bag. A plastic bag holding about 3 gallons of water, one side clear and other black. With a small tube ending with a shower nozzle, the bag was placed in the sunlight and within about an hour +/-, the water is usually hot enough to take an outdoor shower. From experience, if left out in the sun for several hours, the water becomes scalding.

  Hung up on a tree limb, pulling down the nozzle, an adequate amount of hot water is released for a comfortable cleansing.

  Our second night was still and warmer. I am a cool sleeper, cool, like in temperature not like I’m an egotist, bragging on myself. Warm temps make it more difficult to get to sleep and to stay asleep, for me. Though restless, I did have the stars above to view until I naturally drifted off to sleep. Waking during the night, I would gaze out my windows and see just how the sky had changed over time, new stars replaced the first as the earth continued its revolution throughout the night.

  Sunrise from the North Rim looking out into the canyon was so beautiful. With the rising sun behind us, the first rays of sunlight were cast upon the distant opposite canyon walls. Slowly at first, the distant top edges caught the early morning’s golden glow.

  

  Then gradually as the sun rose higher behind us, that golden light flowed downward like warm honey, melting the shadows in its descension while brightening the colors on the cliffs, walls and trees within the chasm. Shadows hung deeply below us but eventually even those melted away as the sun, rising ever higher, cast it brilliance deep down into the depths. It was an awesome way to start the day, with a cup of coffee watching a new day awaken before our eyes.

  

  

  

  Our third day we would move on to the roughest segment of this trip – Toroweap Overlook.

  OH, but this day had an early surprise for us. 

  Would we be able to continue the adventures?

• Roughin’ ItAugust 1, 2026

  #2 Into the Ponderosa Pine Forest

  

  From Phoenix to Jacob’s Lake and then into the interior of the North Rim Lodge area was about 350miles. This land mass north of the Grand Canyon is known as the Arizona Strip. Since the Canyon and Colorado River are natural barriers that cuts that area off from lower Arizona, the sparse population there are more closely connected to Southern Utah. The towns of St. George, Hurricane, Kanab, UT and Colorado City, AZ or Page, AZ further to the east, are the most prominent places for commerce to the few inhabitants living in the Arizona Strip, and even then, unpaved roads therein make it more inhospitable to manage living there. It is truly a rugged place, albeit a place of immense wild beauty and solitude. The area’s rugged remoteness weeds out the faint of heart from venturing very far into this wilderness. 

  First place to visit was in the North Rim Lodge area that burned in 2025, but our camping spots were further into the forest along the Rainbow Rim trail miles away from the burn area. All roads leading into these remote areas are unpaved, the main one, Route 22 is a well-maintained gravel road and easy going. The forest roads branching off the main road leading out to the remote overlook points are narrower and slow going, all which makes the journey more exciting and worth the effort to reach the seclusion I desired. 

  

  A consequence of driving those roads was dust. Tires kicked up a cloudy trail of dust that covered and obscured the rear window while more lightly settling all over my Toyota 4Runner. Not only on the outside, but  fine dust managed to infiltrate the interior, though not as thick as on the exterior. A tarp, covering our equipment inside, lessened the need to brush or wipe things down after every drive. Upon returning home, I spent a couple hours dusting, vacuuming, wiping all of the interior.

  Other than some Forest Service vehicles and maybe two private ones, our drive into the area was alone. My preferred camp site was at Locust Point, the place I first camped on my earliest visits. However, as we approached my favorite spot, we found others already had taken that space. No problem, a little further on, we stopped and set up camp near the overlook at Locust Point. 

  

  The distant points at the end of the side forest roads, all connected by the Rainbow Rim trail, are Timp, North Timp, Locust, Fence and Parissawampitts Points.  Like fingers that stretch out into the canyon, these points are remote, offering adventurous souls solitude and tremendous views into the vastness of this natural wonder. Distances between points vary from 3 to 6.5 miles depending on which one to another a person plans to travel. You see, the trail is not a straight line along an edge, but weaves in and out of the forest, broken by side canyons, drainages and ravines as the trail follows in and around or through those natural elements of the terrain.  Both mountain bikers and hikers avail themselves to the trail. While much of the trail wanders into and through the Ponderosa Pine forest, at times it comes close to the rim edge with stunning views into the canyon. There, at 8000 feet above sea level, the forest monopolizes the landscape providing some shade and stillness. 

  

  Setting up camp, Mark used a small tent next to my 4Runner. With a blow-up air mattress and sleeping bag, his nest for the night was set until we retired after dark. Meanwhile, I opened my roof top tent, threw up a sleeping pad and bag, plus blanket and pillow for my nightly nest.

  After that preparation we took a short walk along that portion of the Rainbow Rim trail, savoring the walk amongst the pines and peering into the wide expanse of the Grand Canyon admiring and absorbing the views along the way. 

  

  Telling Mark of some past experiences at Locust Point, I relayed my first visit there when I also drove a 4Runner. Being somewhat fearful of night creatures, wolves?, bears?, coyotes?, I devised a plan to help protect myself in case of an attack. (To clarify, I don’t think there are wolves or bears in that forest, but, still, I was trying to plan for any possibility). The plan was to use my key fob and hit the panic button/alarm in case I was accosted by any kind of forest creature – or humanoid creature – Big Foot?. I had noted, near my campsite there was a large bone fragment, possibly a hind quarter of a deer but gave it no further thought as I drifted off to sleep.

  Snarling! Growling! – sounds outside my tent startled me awake and that nearly made my blood run cold.

   At least two creatures were skulking about very near my tent. Panic has a way of sharpening the imagination, I was almost sure they were not prowling just outside the thin tent walls ready to attack with claws tearing through the flimsy fabric, but who knows what evil lurks? In an instant, I grabbed my key fob and hit the alarm button. The alarm shattered the dark silence, echoing through the canyon. Aside from one frightened yelp, the night soon reclaimed its quiet—and I reclaimed my senses. Ahhh, back to sleep, never to be bothered again. In the morning I saw that the bones had been moved. Most likely competing coyotes were attempting to claim the prize until I scared the begeebees out of them.

  

  Thankfully such excitement would not impose during our sleep while we were camping this time.

  Others were also camping in the area, but at some distance as to not disturb us – solitude and peace soon settled in. No outside influences, no Facebook, TV, messages, emails, news or other worldly concerns would interfere for a full week away. 

  What a relief to be free of those intrusions. 

  

  

  Our freeze dried meals were really quite tasty. Just. add boiling water, and soon after dinner was served.

Roughin’ It

#6 – Set up camp June 17, 2026 After all the jostling on the road into Toroweap, we found one other site occupied near us.Being a good neighbor I walked over and introduced myself to JT. He and his friend Shawn were ex-military on a mission across the US from Key West, FL to Los…

by azdon120 October 6, 2026October 6, 2026

Roughin’ It

#5- Rough Road Ahead June 17, 2026 continued. Toroweap Overlook – an even more remote and secluded area over very rough unpaved roads. I had visited there about 5 times previously, the first in 1999 after having rafted the mighty Colorado River with a group of about 20 men. Reaching Toroweap was a gripping experience;…

by azdon120 October 1, 2026

Roughin’ It

June 17, 2026 #4 – Devine Providence All packed up and ready to roll. Climbing behind the wheel, I turned the key. Click… What? I paused briefly, some panic piercing my otherwise calm demeanor. Deep breath – carefully turned the key again – a millisecond click and then the engine caught and roared to life.…

by azdon120 August 18, 2026August 18, 2026